Acne products must include certain ingredients to achieve success for the client.
The following is a discussion of these ingredients.
BPO (Benzoyl Peroxide)
An aggressive treatment for acne, DermaQuest™ Skin Therapy reserves the use of BPO
products to the higher grades of acne. The function of the ingredient is simple
benzoyl peroxide penetrates the oil in the follicle, and when it reaches the lower
levels of the follicle, the peroxide changes to free oxygen. Since the P. acnes
bacteria are anaerobic (can only live where no oxygen is present), it dies, controlling
the acne lesion.
The problem with BPO is that overuse of it can cause hyperpigmentation of the skin
later on. For this reason, BPO is sold only by prescription in Europe and in Britain.
The BPO professional and physician-only mask is the
Acne Tx Mask [10%] with MSM,
to be used only under monitored professional care.
Benzoyl Peroxide is now illegal in England and Europe except through prescription
from a physician at any percent level. Therefore you should contact your dermalogist.
SALICYLIC ACID
A beta hydroxy acid naturally occurring in sweet birch and wintergreen leaves. Topical
application of salicylic acid on a daily basis in low (1-2%) concentrations promotes
regular, even exfoliation. It can also minimize the plugging of follicles through
enhancing cellular exfoliation in the follicle walls, and by opening clogs with
its ability to move through oil easily. Over-the-counter products are 1% or less,
while professional esthetician and physician level care products are from 2-4% for
home use and are formulated with antioxidants and hydrating ingredients.
In more concentrated forms (4-30% professional treatment), salicylic acid acts as
an exfoliation agent, and even as a peel. The CIR recommends that the esthetic level
of salicylic acid for professional treatments not exceed 20% concentration and a
3.0 or higher pH. Physicians typically use
30% salicylic acid in their treatment
series.
METHYLSULFONYLMETHANE (Msm)
A naturally occurring sulfur compound and nutritional component found in the normal
diets of humans, MSM is an ideal substitute for sulfur in acne treatments. It shares
many of its parent compound’s therapeutic properties, but without the unwanted side
effects.
This ingredient is in all DermaQuest™ Skin Therapy targeted acne regimen products.
AZELAIC ACID (Dicarboxylic acid)
A naturally occurring tyrosinase inhibitor from the oleic acid in milk, fats, and
potatoes. It is used in acne products to lessen post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
and has been shown to be as effective as hydroquinone, without the irritation. Azelaic
acid also has exfoliating and disinfecting properties that work well with AHAs and
BHAs. It is non-toxic and non-irritating.
It is present in DermaClear and Rejuvaderm.